Frequently Asked Questions

Closed-cell foam resists both water vapor and liquid water, which is why it goes on rim joists and basement walls. Open-cell foam lets vapor pass and should stay above ground, according to the Department of Energy. Neither one fixes a wall that is actively leaking, so we look for water first and let you know if drainage has to be addressed before any insulation goes in.

HomeGuide lists a typical spray-foamed attic at $3,000 to $8,000, and Fixr gives $2,500 to $12,000 for attics in existing homes. If the attic floor is open and easy to reach, air sealing plus blown-in insulation often does the job for less; HomeGuide puts blown-in attics at $900 to $3,600. We quote both when both would work.

It costs more than blown-in or batts, it is difficult to remove, and the house has to be empty during spraying and for a set time afterward. It can also hide roof leaks if it goes on a deck that already has problems. Those are reasons to use it where it pays off, like rim joists and tight spaces, rather than everywhere.

Kits can work for small, easy jobs such as a short stretch of rim joist or a few gaps around pipes. They are harder to apply evenly, sensitive to temperature, and expensive per board foot over large areas. For whole basements, rooflines or pole buildings, professional equipment gives a more even, predictable result.

The Department of Energy lists R60 for an uninsulated attic in its two coldest zones, 6 and 7, and R49 to add when 3 to 4 inches are already there. We measure what you have and write down the depth needed to reach the target.

Ice dams form when attic heat melts snow on the roof. Sealing the air leaks from the living space into the attic is the biggest step toward stopping that, and foam is very effective at sealing those gaps. Enough insulation depth and clear soffit vents finish the job.

Plan on at least 24 hours for most professional spray foam, which is the figure HomeGuide gives, but it depends on the product, thickness and conditions. Before we start, we hand you the re-entry time the manufacturer specifies, in writing. Blown-in insulation does not need you to leave.

It depends on the spot. Closed-cell is the usual choice below grade, on rim joists, on steel and wherever depth is limited, because it resists moisture and has more R-value per inch. Open-cell can work above grade in deep cavities where cost per inch matters more.

Yes, as long as the surface and the material are within the manufacturer's temperature range. In cold months we heat the work area first and check the surface temperature while spraying.

Foam in living areas usually has to be covered with a fire-resistant layer such as drywall, and some products have specific coatings listed for exposed use. We tell you what your area needs before the job so it is not a surprise.

Once cured and protected from sunlight, foam stays in place for the life of the building in normal conditions. That permanence is one reason we are careful about where it goes, since it is hard to remove later.

No. Everyone, including pets, should be out during spraying and until the manufacturer's re-entry time has passed. HomeGuide suggests planning on 24 hours or more.

HomeGuide puts a typical attic insulation project at $1,000 to $2,700, with blown-in at $0.90 to $2.40 per square foot. Spray foam attics run higher, $2,500 to $12,000 in Fixr's guide for existing homes. Your written estimate is the price.

Frost on the roof deck is usually moisture from the house carried up through air leaks in the ceiling. Sealing those leaks, and making sure bath fans vent outdoors, is the fix. More ventilation alone rarely solves it.

Depth helps, but air sealing matters more. Ice dams come from heat reaching the roof deck, and most of that heat travels by air leaks. We seal first, then add depth, and keep the soffit vents open with baffles.

Not usually. If it is dry and clean, new blown-in can go on top once the floor is sealed. Insulation that is wet, moldy, full of droppings or covering a sealing job that has to be done should come out first.

R60 is the Department of Energy's figure for an uninsulated attic in zones 6 and 7, its coldest zones. If you already have 3 to 4 inches, the DOE suggests adding R49. Going to those levels is usually affordable with blown-in over a sealed floor.

In most Minnesota basements it is one of the most cost-effective insulation jobs. The rim leaks a lot of air, it is easy to reach in an unfinished basement and closed-cell foam handles it in one visit. HomeGuide lists rim joist foam at $2,000 to $2,500.

Batts slow heat but let damp indoor air reach the cold rim, where it can condense and keep the wood wet. Closed-cell foam seals the air and controls vapor in one layer, which is why it is the usual recommendation.

It depends on the R-value you want and the finishing plan. Closed-cell runs about R-5 to R-7 per inch according to HomeGuide, so a couple of inches gets a meaningful R-value without taking much floor space. We write the thickness and R-value on the quote.

Not until the water source is dealt with. We will flag what we notice, such as grading, downspouts or cracks, and return once the wall stays dry.

If the space is finished or used regularly, foam normally needs a fire-resistant covering such as drywall. We explain what your area needs before the job.

The drip comes from warm, moist air hitting cold steel. Closed-cell spray foam applied directly to the roof and wall panels keeps that air off the metal. Even a thin layer stops most condensation in a building that is not heated much.

HomeGuide lists closed-cell foam at $3.00 to $5.00 per square foot installed, counted on the surface area sprayed, not the floor. A 1,000 square foot sprayed area runs $1,500 to $5,000 in the same guide. We measure roof and walls and give you a written number.

Very little. Cured closed-cell foam is light compared with the snow load the roof is built for, which is 50 pounds per square foot of ground snow in Stearns, Benton and Sherburne counties under state rules.

Yes. Closed-cell foam against the subfloor from the garage side seals and insulates in one step. The DOE suggests R30 to R38 for floors in cold zones, and we write the target on the quote.

In most steel buildings closed-cell is the better fit, because it controls vapor and stops condensation at the panel. Open-cell can let moist air reach the steel and hold water. We may use it in wood-framed garages where conditions allow.

On an open, accessible attic floor, sealing the air leaks and then blowing in insulation usually reaches the same comfort as spray foam for much less money. Foam makes more sense on cathedral ceilings, tight eaves or roof decks with ductwork.

Both work on attic floors. Cellulose has more R-value per inch, about R-3.1 to R-3.8 per HomeGuide, and is the usual choice for dense-pack walls. Fiberglass is lighter, settles less and holds up better than cellulose if it gets wet.

HomeGuide lists $1.00 to $2.80 per square foot and $900 to $3,600 for a typical attic. Fixr gives $1,750 to $5,500 for an attic of about 1,500 square feet. Your written estimate is the price.

Yes. Dense-pack goes in through small holes drilled in each stud bay, from outside under the siding or from inside, and the holes are plugged afterward.

Usually, provided the existing insulation is clean and dry and the attic floor is sealed first. Wet, moldy or contaminated insulation should be removed before anything new goes in.

HomeAdvisor lists $1 to $2 per square foot, with typical jobs at $600 to $1,200, and an average of about $1,852 for removal plus replacement. Spray foam removal costs more, $1.50 to $3 per square foot in Fixr's guide.

No, not if it is dry and clean. Removal makes sense when insulation is wet, contaminated, damaged or blocking an air sealing job that needs the floor exposed.

We stop, leave it undisturbed and tell you it needs testing. Should the test find asbestos, removal by an abatement contractor has to happen before we can insulate.

Old insulation can carry dust, droppings and mold, and vermiculite may contain asbestos. Professional removal uses vacuums that send the material outside and protective gear for the crew.

Removal deals with the damage, not the cause. Ice dams come from heat leaking into the attic, so the fix is sealing the attic floor and reinsulating to depth after the wet material comes out.